gyachung kang climb

Trained as a chemical engineer, he now works as a climbing instructor, mountain guide and photographer. The younger team members often showed us how spontaneously well we understood one another when they brought us their own doubts and discussions.The mountain we chose for our first acclimatization ascent—a 6700-meter peak neither mentioned nor named in Jan Kielkowski’s guide—had first caught our attention during the approach. During acclimatization I spent the entire time watching the north face of Gyachung Kang. Climbing photos at Gyachung Kang uploaded by users of mountain-forecast.com

Looking at it, I immediately warmed to the idea of an ascent from the Tibetan side. Day 14-43: Climbing period. The other five broke trail to ABC without me, walking through knee-deep snow to dig out the two tents below the face, then returning to BC in the evening. For the last time, we climbed the face with our eyes.

Andrej, Marko Car, Peter and I set off to climb it. Forward or back? Wind and avalanches swept the snow from the face, which became more and more climbable.Andrej and Tomaž returned from the village and told us that there were only nine days left to make the climb. He is married and has two sons.The monthly Cutting Edge podcast features in-depth interviews with the climbers who will be writing next year’s AAJ stories, just back from great new climbs. She had felt the presence of others the entire time of her descent, and when the two discussed it, they realized they had been hallucinating.

We had been poisoned by carbon monoxide.That night, we could not reach BC by radio, so Matic ran to get Doctor Žare. "We are training," they replied.Two hours later Taeko rejoined him on the glacier. Breathing deeply, I realized we had both been unconscious for some time. When he finally rejoined Taeko four hours later, he was exhausted and could no longer see. She had hit her head against a rock during the fall and lost much blood, as well as her right glove; her vision in her left eye was also affected.Yasushi pulled up the rope, understood the situation, descended to confirm Taeko's well-being, then reascended to retrieve the line. Yasushi went first.

After talking to Žare, we slowly went down. Day 13: It is our turn to trek to Gyachung Kang Base Camp(5350m. We cleaned and packed ABC, then descended, still sinking waist-deep in the snow when we weren’t careful. It lies on the border between Nepal and Tibet. Their support team had assumed they had disappeared.They began their return to Kathmandu immediately and were flown to a hospital in Tokyo on October 18. Žare gave him and Tomaž additional medicine, and they immediately set out for BC.

We divided into four rope parties for the unclimbed Siguang Ri Shar (6998m). I haven’t observed any in particular.” “Well, I have. Despite the sleepless night, I felt great. He noticed strangers nearby. It is regarded as the highest peak between Cho Oyu (8,201m) and Mount Everest (8,850m).

Day 46: We trek to Khumjung, overnight in a local lodge. Or had it just begun?“How are we ever going to return to the valley in all this snow?” Although it appeared on all our faces, it was the question nobody asked out loud.In the afternoon of the third day, the snow stopped falling. Map of climbing route Gyachungkang. Consider things such as access and accommodation at the base of Gyachung Kang, as well as the logistics of climbing … Day 47: Trek to Phakting. Again, Andrej had to make the final decision, because the uncertainty was greater for those who would go first.

After supper, we heard from Tomaž and Peter, whose tracks disappeared under a rock barrier above us. He stayed on top only a minute before beginning his descent. Upon reaching the glacier proper, Yasushi looked back to see Taeko with some people.

We were sincerely happy to stand on the spot where everything turns downward, especially the view. We celebrated my birthday. Andrej and I cooked in front of our tent that evening.The wind did not stop in the morning.

The weather was bad and remained so, even after our arrival in Tibet. Tomaž worried about his lost passport. Gyachung Kang.